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As the global creative director of Chanel Makeup since January 2008, Peter Philips has been the mastermind behind some of the brand’s latest and greatest hits: for instance, the jade green nail polish that debuted on the runway earlier this year and spawned a gazillion gushing blog entries. Philips is known for his artistry (Great Gatsby–esque glossy black eyes at the 2009 cruise show in Venice; ornately embroidered false lashes at fall/winter 2009 RTW), but the puckish Belgian balances his avant-garde flourishes with timeless beauty basics such as flawless skin or perfectly arched brows. “Whether you like dramatic makeup or prefer to keep it simple,” he says, “it’s good to take a step back, look at yourself, and ask, Do I really need all of this? or Do I need a bit more? It’s like when you buy a pair of shoes—you try them on and walk around the store. You should do the same with makeup. Take time to make sure it’s working, and then you can play. It should be a treat you give yourself every day.”
How do you keep eye gloss from looking messy?
You don’t. It’s meant to crease and move around. It’s like wearing a designer jacket with exposed seams—some people are comfortable with that, some aren’t. Dark eye gloss is a statement: It’s a little trashy, a little rock ’n’ roll. If you want to go for a sort of Kurt Cobain look, lay it on thick, and don’t use a base with it or you’ll dilute the strength of the color. That way it looks decadent, like you’ve been to a party or you’ve been onstage. If you want it more subtle, you can apply it sheer with your finger and then blend it out with a brush.
You don’t. It’s meant to crease and move around. It’s like wearing a designer jacket with exposed seams—some people are comfortable with that, some aren’t. Dark eye gloss is a statement: It’s a little trashy, a little rock ’n’ roll. If you want to go for a sort of Kurt Cobain look, lay it on thick, and don’t use a base with it or you’ll dilute the strength of the color. That way it looks decadent, like you’ve been to a party or you’ve been onstage. If you want it more subtle, you can apply it sheer with your finger and then blend it out with a brush.
What eye shadow and lipstick hues are most universally flattering?
Natural shades like brown and beige work on most complexions, and I like gold tones because they make the skin look warmer. If you have blue eyes, try a bit of red somewhere—a lipstick, or a reddish-brown eye shadow; the contrast will bring out the color of your eyes. Intense purples look great on brown-skinned girls—they blend into the skin tone but still stand out.
Natural shades like brown and beige work on most complexions, and I like gold tones because they make the skin look warmer. If you have blue eyes, try a bit of red somewhere—a lipstick, or a reddish-brown eye shadow; the contrast will bring out the color of your eyes. Intense purples look great on brown-skinned girls—they blend into the skin tone but still stand out.
What’s the best way to prep skin for makeup?
I clean the face, spray it with Evian,and then apply Crème de la Mer. It’s a very neutral moisturizer that works on everyone: If you have dry skin, use a bit more; if you tend to be oily, just use a small amount. It works better than a primer.
I clean the face, spray it with Evian,and then apply Crème de la Mer. It’s a very neutral moisturizer that works on everyone: If you have dry skin, use a bit more; if you tend to be oily, just use a small amount. It works better than a primer.
Perfect skin is the starting point for all of your runway looks. What’s your secret?
I like to blend different shades of foundation to subtly sculpt the face. I use lighter shades on the places that catch the light—the bridge of the nose, the chin, the top of the cheeks—and then a shade or two darker on the sides of the face and the forehead. Then I finish with Chanel Poudre Libre, which isn’t too matte. And depending on the effect I’m after, I’ll use either a cotton or a silk puff.
I like to blend different shades of foundation to subtly sculpt the face. I use lighter shades on the places that catch the light—the bridge of the nose, the chin, the top of the cheeks—and then a shade or two darker on the sides of the face and the forehead. Then I finish with Chanel Poudre Libre, which isn’t too matte. And depending on the effect I’m after, I’ll use either a cotton or a silk puff.
What’s the difference?
A silk puff gives a glowy finish, and a cotton puff gives a matte finish. If I haven’t already sculpted the face with foundation, I like to set the makeup with a silk puff, except under the eyes, where I use cotton. If you keep the undereye area a bit matte, the rest of the face will appear more luminous—and you can create even more contrast by tapping a pearly highlighter onto the tops of your cheeks with your fingers. That really brings out the cheekbones. It’s not only a game of different shades, it’s a game of different textures.
A silk puff gives a glowy finish, and a cotton puff gives a matte finish. If I haven’t already sculpted the face with foundation, I like to set the makeup with a silk puff, except under the eyes, where I use cotton. If you keep the undereye area a bit matte, the rest of the face will appear more luminous—and you can create even more contrast by tapping a pearly highlighter onto the tops of your cheeks with your fingers. That really brings out the cheekbones. It’s not only a game of different shades, it’s a game of different textures.
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DIY: One cut does not fit all. “It’s very important that your bangs suit your face shape,” says Guido. Blunt cuts flatter oval faces, while round and square faces look best with fringe that’s longer on the sides and slightly shorter in the middle.
Try With: A bold eye. McGrath says she followed the horizontal edge of the fringe when smudging out black liner to create the sultry smoked eyes at Lanvin (shown at left).
DIY: Stick with your natural eyebrow shape and use a matching brow pencil to fill in sparse hairs, as Charlotte Tilbury did at Chloé (shown at left).
Try With: Nude cheeks, which offer an artful counterbalance. Tilbury used contour powders (one shade darker than the model’s skin tone) to “emphasize cheekbones and temples.”
DIY: Guido, who created ’60s-inspired height at Nina Ricci (shown at left), recommends applying a bodifying mousse to the roots of damp hair, blow-drying, then back-combing at the crown. Gently tease front pieces and smooth them back, sealing the look with hairspray.
Try With: Roughed-up texture. To ensure the hair wasn’t beauty-pageant polished, Guido, Redken’s creative consultant, made strands “piece-y” so the overall look was “slightly undone.”
The Look: Wine shades “infuse fantasy into a look,” says makeup artist Pat McGrath, who at Dior had editors cooing over her revamp of summer’s ubiquitous red lip.
Seen At: Dior (shown at left), Luca Luca, Missoni, Peter Som, Proenza Schouler
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Three ways to apply liquid eyeliner
A typical way to apply liquid eyeliner is to line eye from the inside of the lashes outward in one big sweep. You can also line the eye from the middle of the lashline outward. Then finish the line from the inner corner of the eye to the middle.
My third liquid eyeliner trick requires a steady hand. The results are supposed to be wider eyes.
Step 1: Start with a completely bare eye, no shadow or mascara.
Step 2: Apply liquid liner in the upper lashes. Dot the liner into lashes, pushing them aside if need be. The result is not supposed to be a line. It’s supposed to look as if the lashes themselves are super thick at the root.
Step 3: Apply mascara.
Step 4: Compare eye to other naked eye and see if you love the results.
Step 2: Apply liquid liner in the upper lashes. Dot the liner into lashes, pushing them aside if need be. The result is not supposed to be a line. It’s supposed to look as if the lashes themselves are super thick at the root.
Step 3: Apply mascara.
Step 4: Compare eye to other naked eye and see if you love the results.
The Basic, “I’m Off to Work or the Weekend,” Eye
This is the perfect work or weekend look for women who want their eyes to “pop” without giving off the appearance of a woman who’s really, really into makeup, so into makeup she has this site bookmarked in her Web favorites.
The key to the basic eye is to apply with a light hand. Unless you are Catherine Zeta-Jones or Beyonce and have been blessed with sultry dark looks, opt for a lighter shade than kohl or black. The basic eye is all about appearing natural. Leave the black for the looks below.
This look calls for liquid or pencil eyeliner, a deep-hued eyeshadow and an eyeliner brush.
Step 1: Holding the skin of your upper lid taut, apply eyeliner from the outside corner of the eye, stopping two-thirds of the way along the eyelid. Apply with short strokes, drawing the line into the lash line rather than above it. For a more dramatic look, make the outside line a bit thicker than the inside.
Step 2: Set liner with a deep eyeshadow. Dip eyeshadow brush into the shadow, then apply shadow over the eyeliner. This will set the eyeliner, which tends to rub off on eyelid.
Step 3: Apply eyeshadow to lower lashes. Using your eyeshadow brush, apply the deep-hued eyeshadow along the bottom lashes, from the outside in. Unless you have wide-set eyes, don’t line the entire lower lid. Instead, stop halfway across. For a more natural look, don’t dip the brush into the shadow again, instead, use the excess that’s still on the brush for the lower lashes.
Step 4:Clean up any mistakes with a cotton swab.
Extra tips: To make eyes appear wider, trace the inner rims of eyes with a white pencil.
Throw out the cheapie applicators that come with your makeup. Investing in a good set of makeup brushesis key to a flawless face)
